Ok, I'll will try and remember everything..... I still had the pictures, but none of the text from the previous AAOC and it's been a few years!
I have to admit that this is one rifle that I regret selling every single day!
First of all you should make sure that the cylinder is completely empty and then..... remove the stock, scope and silencer. The stock (even this ginb) is held on by just a single Allen key bolt underneath the stock.
Next the barrel band. Unscrew the filll valve cap first and then the barrel band can be removed, it is held inplace with 2 grub screws.
Ok, so now the anti-tamper (a-t) may or may not be present on your rifle...... When I originally did the strip down all discussion of a-t was somewhat taboo.
Once the a-t has fallen off you can remove the 6 bolt housing bolts.
Don't forget the o-ring between the valve block and bolt housing (transfer port)!
The shroud is now more accessible, and unscrews off the bolt housing. It can be very tight, rubber gloves and some heat help a lot if needed.
Remove the side plate which houses the mag indexing post and cam.
Followed by the mag retaining clip.
The barrel can now be removed by unscrewing the 3 grub screws, 2 above (1 is under the mag retaining clip), and 1 below.
The fill valve has 2 flats on the end, you can easily remove this with a spanner. The cylinder end plug on the other hand can be quite tight! I've found that a decent pair of 90deg circlip pliers (ground down) and a pair of rubber gloves make the best tools for removing it.
The cylinder can now be unscrewed from the valve housing, once again the rubber gloves help you to grip and twist.
Remove the gauge dogleg which also reveals the firing pot retaining screw.
Remove the bolt at the back of the striker housing, and also the guide bolt at the top of the striker/hammer.
The valve block and striker housing are now separated. The firing pot can be unscrewed (don't forget the grubscrew mentioned previously). Standard setting of the firing pot is 57mm protruding.
To separate the trigger housing from the striker housing you need to first remove the trigger guard, which is held inplace by 2 bolts. The trigger housing can now be removed, 1 bolt from above and one below.
The trigger sear plate can now be removed to access the Sears.
Remove the side lever mechanism, and guide bush.
The breech seal is also easily replaced with the barrel removed.
Sorry but I never got around to doing the shroud baffles as they can be a right pain to get out. If I do another I will document it.
Ps....... Good luck!
Kev.
S510 strip down (pic heavy)
Re: S510 strip down (pic heavy)
What's the general concencus on a-t removal? I wouldn't like to be held liable for anything.
Re: S510 strip down (pic heavy)
Kev Todd wrote:What's the general concencus on a-t removal? I wouldn't like to be held liable for anything.
I think were fine mate. Check with Ray or Jules though.
AA s410K .177
BSA R10 .177 Super carbine. (Blacky)
BSA R10 .177 Super carbine. (Blacky)
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Re: S510 strip down (pic heavy)
Thanks Kev, a great help in stripping her down.
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Re: S510 strip down (pic heavy)
AT plugs aren't a legal requirement. They are normally fitted to prevent home servicing. Power adjuster ATs should be left in place if you can, this helps if you get pulled by the police. After all, why would the police be interested in whether or not you have replaced an O ring on the gauge?
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Theoben Rapid Mk2 .20, Light Stream 4.5X14X44 FFP.
AA S410 TDR .177, Yukon Photon XT with 135 mm lens conversion.
Theoben Rapid Mk2 .20, Light Stream 4.5X14X44 FFP.
AA S410 TDR .177, Yukon Photon XT with 135 mm lens conversion.
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Re: S510 strip down (pic heavy)
Brilliant post Kev, everything you need to know about stripping down an S510.
Do you have anything like this for the S410.
Cheers
Kevin
Do you have anything like this for the S410.
Cheers
Kevin
Re: S510 strip down (pic heavy)
Brooksy wrote: After all, why would the police be interested in whether or not you have replaced an O ring on the gauge?
You can easily adjust the power way over or under without removing any of the A-T!
Re: S510 strip down (pic heavy)
Hi Kev really cool post
Ive bought an S510 carbine the other week ,after some time away from shooting
i really could do with some expert advise on set up it would much appreciated
nice one
Ive bought an S510 carbine the other week ,after some time away from shooting
i really could do with some expert advise on set up it would much appreciated
nice one
- BforBarney
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Re: S510 strip down (pic heavy)
I tried this yesterday, I couldn't get the striker housing screw out or the barrel shroud off. I could put a piece of pipe down over the allen key for the striker screw for more leverage but I'd be putting serious pressure on it, when you say use a little heat for the barrel shroud what exactly do you mean, bic lighter? gas torch?
Re: S510 strip down (pic heavy)
BforBarney wrote:I tried this yesterday, I couldn't get the striker housing screw out or the barrel shroud off. I could put a piece of pipe down over the allen key for the striker screw for more leverage but I'd be putting serious pressure on it, when you say use a little heat for the barrel shroud what exactly do you mean, bic lighter? gas torch?
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