s410 TDR new bolt

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pjgtech
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun May 07, 2017 5:06 pm

s410 TDR new bolt

Sat May 13, 2017 10:19 am

Hi, just bought a new bolt for my s410 TDR as although its mostly black, for some reason the bolt is a sort of bare metal, not stainles steel, etc, so I decided to buy a Black anodised one from Rowan Eng.

It was delivered this morning, I will have a look at it later this weekend, but I'm assuming its just one alan key nut holding on the old bolt, undue the nut, take off the old bolt, put the new bolt on and redo the alan nut? Should be easy peasy.

Might take a few before and after pics too..... 8-)
pjgtech: BASC: SMK S2 Pistol .177
Air Arms ProSport .177 (Tuned):
Air Arms S410 TDR .177:
Kral NP-02 .177:
Umarex Colt 1911 . 177:
Weihrauch HW 97KT. 22:(Tuned):
Weihrauch HW40 .177

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eboswan
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Location: swansea

Re: s410 TDR new bolt

Sat May 13, 2017 11:06 am

You may have too warm up the bolt too remove because it may or may not have some loctite helping too hold it on.
IS MY SIGNATURE BIGGER THAN RAYS. Cz 452 american .22+sak mod
S200. .177

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TenMetrePeter
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Location: Luton Beds UK

Re: s410 TDR new bolt

Sat May 13, 2017 11:09 am

If you are taking the bolt handle off the bolt probe you may need some heat from a small cooks torch or heat gun to soften the Loctite. You also need a wet rag on the probe to protect it. Otherwise yes just the one allen screw.
The Rowan instructions online fully describe the process.
If you use Loctite when replacing wipe off excess and ensure lots of moly grease on the rest of the bolt before indexing or you may loctite it into the block!

EDIT ha! you beat me to it.

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eboswan
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Re: s410 TDR new bolt

Sat May 13, 2017 11:12 am

TenMetrePeter wrote:If you are taking the bolt handle off the bolt probe you may need some heat from a small cooks torch or heat gun to soften the Loctite. You also need a wet rag on the probe to protect it. Otherwise yes just the one allen screw.
The Rowan instructions online fully describe the process.
If you use Loctite when replacing wipe off excess and ensure lots of moly grease on the rest of the bolt before indexing or you may loctite it into the block!

EDIT ha! you beat me to it.


:mrgreen: :mrgreen:

You could try using a hair dryer or an elect paint stripper but protect everything around the bolt.
IS MY SIGNATURE BIGGER THAN RAYS. Cz 452 american .22+sak mod
S200. .177

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pjgtech
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun May 07, 2017 5:06 pm

Re: s410 TDR new bolt

Sat May 13, 2017 5:15 pm

Should have looked in the envelope, there are instructions in there.

I have got the alan bolt out ok, but pulling the actual bolt off seems harder, is this the bit that is loctited on?

The instructions say to not pull the bolt out fully (eg: don't cock the rifle) and pull the bolt off, but without gripping the shaft with something (eg: molegrips, which would ruin the shaft) its hard to grip the shaft whilst trying to get the bolt off. Surely if I cock the rifle so the shaft is at the end of its stroke, then I have something to pull against without gripping the shaft?

I have not applied any heat yet, but will try that at some point...
pjgtech: BASC: SMK S2 Pistol .177
Air Arms ProSport .177 (Tuned):
Air Arms S410 TDR .177:
Kral NP-02 .177:
Umarex Colt 1911 . 177:
Weihrauch HW 97KT. 22:(Tuned):
Weihrauch HW40 .177

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eboswan
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Posts: 3222
Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2015 9:16 am
Location: swansea

Re: s410 TDR new bolt

Sat May 13, 2017 5:58 pm

pjgtech wrote:Should have looked in the envelope, there are instructions in there.

I have got the alan bolt out ok, but pulling the actual bolt off seems harder, is this the bit that is loctited on?yes

The instructions say to not pull the bolt out fully (eg: don't cock the rifle) and pull the bolt off, but without gripping the shaft with something (eg: molegrips, which would ruin the shaft) its hard to grip the shaft whilst trying to get the bolt off. Surely if I cock the rifle so the shaft is at the end of its stroke, then I have something to pull against without gripping the shaft?

I have not applied any heat yet, but will try that at some point...

once you have warmed the loctite enough the bolt handle should just slide off with little effort.
IS MY SIGNATURE BIGGER THAN RAYS. Cz 452 american .22+sak mod
S200. .177

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pjgtech
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun May 07, 2017 5:06 pm

Re: s410 TDR new bolt

Sat May 13, 2017 6:04 pm

Ah, ok, will try that later, thanx...

I'll try a hair dryer first (she has a mega expensive one, so it should get fairly hot), I will resist using my old plumbers gas bottle at this stage... 8-)
pjgtech: BASC: SMK S2 Pistol .177
Air Arms ProSport .177 (Tuned):
Air Arms S410 TDR .177:
Kral NP-02 .177:
Umarex Colt 1911 . 177:
Weihrauch HW 97KT. 22:(Tuned):
Weihrauch HW40 .177

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eboswan
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Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2015 9:16 am
Location: swansea

Re: s410 TDR new bolt

Sat May 13, 2017 6:08 pm

pjgtech wrote:Ah, ok, will try that later, thanx...

I'll try a hair dryer first (she has a mega expensive one, so it should get fairly hot), I will resist using my old plumbers gas bottle at this stage... 8-)

Or a lump hammer and chisel :lol:
IS MY SIGNATURE BIGGER THAN RAYS. Cz 452 american .22+sak mod
S200. .177

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pjgtech
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun May 07, 2017 5:06 pm

Re: s410 TDR new bolt

Sat May 13, 2017 6:44 pm

Ok, tried her hairdryer, wow that bolt got hot, thought it would never come off, but eventually it got loose, then looser, then it started moving, then slowly, slowly I edged it off the shaft. Was worried for while though, that I may not get it off! New one is on and looks much better IMHO, as the black matches the rest of the rifle.

Couple of pics below: Before and after.

This is the old (original) bolt.
https://image.ibb.co/jajYQk/AA_S410_TDR_existing_bolt_may_20172.jpg

This is the new black anodised Bolt.
https://image.ibb.co/fo3hJ5/AA_s410_TDR_new_bolt_black_anodised_may_20174.jpg
pjgtech: BASC: SMK S2 Pistol .177
Air Arms ProSport .177 (Tuned):
Air Arms S410 TDR .177:
Kral NP-02 .177:
Umarex Colt 1911 . 177:
Weihrauch HW 97KT. 22:(Tuned):
Weihrauch HW40 .177

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