S510 strip down (pic heavy)
Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 10:20 pm
Ok, I'll will try and remember everything..... I still had the pictures, but none of the text from the previous AAOC and it's been a few years!
I have to admit that this is one rifle that I regret selling every single day!
First of all you should make sure that the cylinder is completely empty and then..... remove the stock, scope and silencer. The stock (even this ginb) is held on by just a single Allen key bolt underneath the stock.
Next the barrel band. Unscrew the filll valve cap first and then the barrel band can be removed, it is held inplace with 2 grub screws.
Ok, so now the anti-tamper (a-t) may or may not be present on your rifle...... When I originally did the strip down all discussion of a-t was somewhat taboo.
Once the a-t has fallen off you can remove the 6 bolt housing bolts.
Don't forget the o-ring between the valve block and bolt housing (transfer port)!
The shroud is now more accessible, and unscrews off the bolt housing. It can be very tight, rubber gloves and some heat help a lot if needed.
Remove the side plate which houses the mag indexing post and cam.
Followed by the mag retaining clip.
The barrel can now be removed by unscrewing the 3 grub screws, 2 above (1 is under the mag retaining clip), and 1 below.
The fill valve has 2 flats on the end, you can easily remove this with a spanner. The cylinder end plug on the other hand can be quite tight! I've found that a decent pair of 90deg circlip pliers (ground down) and a pair of rubber gloves make the best tools for removing it.
The cylinder can now be unscrewed from the valve housing, once again the rubber gloves help you to grip and twist.
Remove the gauge dogleg which also reveals the firing pot retaining screw.
Remove the bolt at the back of the striker housing, and also the guide bolt at the top of the striker/hammer.
The valve block and striker housing are now separated. The firing pot can be unscrewed (don't forget the grubscrew mentioned previously). Standard setting of the firing pot is 57mm protruding.
To separate the trigger housing from the striker housing you need to first remove the trigger guard, which is held inplace by 2 bolts. The trigger housing can now be removed, 1 bolt from above and one below.
The trigger sear plate can now be removed to access the Sears.
Remove the side lever mechanism, and guide bush.
The breech seal is also easily replaced with the barrel removed.
Sorry but I never got around to doing the shroud baffles as they can be a right pain to get out. If I do another I will document it.
Ps....... Good luck!
Kev.
I have to admit that this is one rifle that I regret selling every single day!
First of all you should make sure that the cylinder is completely empty and then..... remove the stock, scope and silencer. The stock (even this ginb) is held on by just a single Allen key bolt underneath the stock.
Next the barrel band. Unscrew the filll valve cap first and then the barrel band can be removed, it is held inplace with 2 grub screws.
Ok, so now the anti-tamper (a-t) may or may not be present on your rifle...... When I originally did the strip down all discussion of a-t was somewhat taboo.
Once the a-t has fallen off you can remove the 6 bolt housing bolts.
Don't forget the o-ring between the valve block and bolt housing (transfer port)!
The shroud is now more accessible, and unscrews off the bolt housing. It can be very tight, rubber gloves and some heat help a lot if needed.
Remove the side plate which houses the mag indexing post and cam.
Followed by the mag retaining clip.
The barrel can now be removed by unscrewing the 3 grub screws, 2 above (1 is under the mag retaining clip), and 1 below.
The fill valve has 2 flats on the end, you can easily remove this with a spanner. The cylinder end plug on the other hand can be quite tight! I've found that a decent pair of 90deg circlip pliers (ground down) and a pair of rubber gloves make the best tools for removing it.
The cylinder can now be unscrewed from the valve housing, once again the rubber gloves help you to grip and twist.
Remove the gauge dogleg which also reveals the firing pot retaining screw.
Remove the bolt at the back of the striker housing, and also the guide bolt at the top of the striker/hammer.
The valve block and striker housing are now separated. The firing pot can be unscrewed (don't forget the grubscrew mentioned previously). Standard setting of the firing pot is 57mm protruding.
To separate the trigger housing from the striker housing you need to first remove the trigger guard, which is held inplace by 2 bolts. The trigger housing can now be removed, 1 bolt from above and one below.
The trigger sear plate can now be removed to access the Sears.
Remove the side lever mechanism, and guide bush.
The breech seal is also easily replaced with the barrel removed.
Sorry but I never got around to doing the shroud baffles as they can be a right pain to get out. If I do another I will document it.
Ps....... Good luck!
Kev.
